It was the fourth of July our first year in Philadelphia. We
went downtown to watch the parade and saw the strangest thing, a band of men
wearing sequins from head to toe, carrying parasols, and playing instruments.
The marched while playing saxophones, banjos, and even upright bases. I had
never seen such a thing, and then a few floats later, there was another band
just like the other. What was this madness?
“Oh those are mummers,” we were told . “What exactly are
mummers?” we asked. “Ummm. Well, they are just, well THOSE are mummers. It’s
that right there.”
That sort of non-explanation is the norm for mummery. They
exist in Philadelphia and not so much anywhere else. There may be some
variations in other places, but in Philly they are in every parade, have a long
road filled with Mummers club houses, and every New Year ’s Day since 1901,
there is the Mummers parade.
We went and watched the Mummers. They are above all else,
fun. Watching the Mummers you will see kids, babies even, dancing down Broad
Street, hundreds of people not associated with a high school or getting paid
playing live instruments, and lots and lots of bearded men is sequined dresses.
We loved it.
Our curiosity piqued we took a trip down to 2nd
st. and Washington in South Philly to visit the Mummers Museum. The art deco
building housed costumed mannequins from parades past and some explanations for
this Philadelphia oddity.
It is thought that the traditions grew out of the British
Isles’ mummers plays. There are reports of mocking mummer plays being held in
President Washington’s honor while he resided in Philadelphia. In the early
1800’s it was normal to find roving bands of men dressed as clowns causing a
ruckus during the holiday season. The tradition was formalized into the parade
in 1901, making it America’s oldest continuous folk parade.
I learned these things by reading faded signs on dusty
displays in a museum whose heyday appeared to be at least a decade ago. In one
corner of the museum I was able to try a costume on. I pulled on a long
glittering skirt with feathers around the hem, donned a sparkly vest, and
placed a tall multicolored feather crown upon my head. I danced and posed for
my wife as she took pictures. Wearing this fine regalia I squinted to read a
faded sign off in one corner. As I did I removed my crown and began feeling
sick.
The sign explained the origins of the Mummers signature
dance or “strut”. The dance is a variation of the cake walk, a dance or strut
popularized in black face minstrel shows in the very early 1900s. The Mummer
strut is traditionally done to the tune Oh Dem Golden Slippers, a blackface
standard. The sign also explained that from day one, till a city order in 1964,
the parade was done in black face.
Standing there in sequins and feathers I felt betrayed.
It was in a back corner of the Mummer Museum when I realized
that in this very black city, I had never seen a black Mummer. It is possible
one exists but I think the academic term for them is “statistically
insignificant”.
I have met plenty of Mummers. Since reading that sign I have
asked, and listened, to what Mummers say Mummery is all about. I have talked to
people who have never read a thing I have written or have a clue to whom I am
married, and not once has anything remotely racist been uttered. I hear lots of
talk about tradition and fun. I have heard and read about music and family.
I like all of those things.
I have never read anything about black people or hate. It is
as if anything racist was scrubbed off along with the black makeup. I have
never even heard a mummer bring up the black face past. I am even willing to
wager that most all of the Mummers under the age of 25 have no idea of the
racist history or know what a minstrel show ever was. So in a very real way to
them, and to most everyone, the Mummers are very much just family, tradition,
music, and fun.
What a great object lesson about race in America.
The Mummers parade is fantastic, it is also very deeply and
firmly sprung from racist roots.
So what is it now?
I am watching the parade now as I write this. I love it. I
just saw a brigade perform a skit where a mass of commoners used a giant gold
dollar sign to lure a donkey and an elephant into a trap where they could both
be struck over the head by the liberty bell. I would encourage anyone and
everyone to attend. It is guaranteed fun no matter who you are.
But were I ever invited, or had the opportunity to become a
Mummer, I do not think I would do it. I cannot escape the memory of what I felt
when all bedecked in glitter I read that faded sign. Watching the parade today I have not seen a
black face, painted or otherwise. The bands and brigades are formed as clubs
and other organizations. Many are tied up in family traditions and bloodlines.
Black people need not be barred for these sorts of things to stay all white.
The white people need not really be racist for a black person to not feel
comfortable or welcomed.
So in this way the parade is like most everything.
Does what something used to be, forever taint what it is
now?
How do we enjoy today when maybe yesterday isn’t all the way
gone yet?
Happy New Year… I’m spending the rest of today enjoying the
parade.